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Suipacha… The Argentine version of Brokeback Moutain (publié dans Gay Times – Avril 2009)
30 mars, 2009, 17:23
Classé dans : Argentine,Buenos Aires,Gay,gay Buenos Aires



 « Suipacha, a sensitive city » announces the welcome sign at the entrance of the town. More than a warning, it is a curious prediction of what awaits us in Suipacha, a small rural city located in the middle of the Argentinian Pampa, an hour and a half away from downtown Buenos Aires.   Suipacha is the South American version of “Brokeback Mountain”. Each weekend, the small town turns into the meeting point for gay “gauchos” (cowboys) from the surrounding area. Located on a remote, deserted road, beside an abandoned gas station, Zona X (pronounced “Zona Equis”) is one of the most bizarre gay clubs in Latin America.   

The place is a typical Pampa rancho, made of cement walls, capped with a corrugated iron roof, where a diverse and freaky fauna gathers: cowboys (gauchos) in traditional leather trousers just off their horses or tractors, young gay workers employed in the numerous agro-industry factories in the area, truck-drivers, transvestites with a dubious glamour, married farmers who decided for one night to leave their wife home… And an increasing number of trendy gays from Buenos Aires and foreign tourists (mainly Europeans and North-Americans) looking for new vibes and authenticity. This unusual crowd gets together in this obscure shelter, “a place where anything can happen”, a motto that is more than well-founded in Zona X.   The amicable atmosphere will quickly make you forget the swarm of insects that sometimes descend from the rafters or the unrefined decoration of the place. Facundo and Nacho, the adorable couple that owns Zona X, want to preserve the rustic energy of the place “to continue to attract a local and heterogeneous public and to keep the values and the originality of the club intact” explains Facundo. Musicwise, the club offers a wide variety of styles: electro, dance music, salsa, samba, and of course,cumbia a type of music that is very popular these days in Argentina. 

Apart from the dancefloor, the great attraction of the club remains the cueva, literally “the cave”, the darkroom where gauchos, truck drivers, and transvestites have their craziest sexual experiences. “After the club closes, frolicking often continues outside in the fields or in a nearby abandoned gas station” explains Nacho. It is an unforgettable show to see worn out transvestites, horny gauchos and sexy farmers wandering around in the budding dawn, in the middle of nowhere, desperate to find a body to hold.  The couple has an unending flow of stories to tell describing their clientele. From a university history professor who, each Saturday, turns himself into “Claudia”, a blond and wiry wigged transvestite, to a doctor who comes, no matter what the season, dressed with the same white tank-top and the same denim minishort. Not to mention Alex, a make-up artist who made a fortune in Miami and who decided to spend four months in the area just to devote all of his weekends to Suipacha, or Roberto, a superb amateur stripper who dances completely naked upon the bar, his shiny body totally covered… with cooking oil!   

Beyond being just a simple fun spot, Zona X is a true UFO in the panorama of Argentinean gay nightlife. In Argentina, the gaucho represents THE male figure, founder of a country which still has a strong and ever-present machismo. This small and distant rancho thus defies an important national symbol. Following the successful release of “Brokeback Mountain”, several newspapers mentioned the existence of Zona X, breaking the gay taboo of the gauchos and showing that the meadows of the Pampa, just like any other environment with a strong male presence (such as the the army or the church) is the scene of untold gay relations.   If you wish to savor the experience of the gay Pampa, take advantage of your stay in Argentina and hotfoot it to Suipacha. In addition to the beautiful landscapes, you will undoubtedly enjoy an original and unforgettable night!  

Information ZONA X :  Open Thursdays and saturdays.  Entrance fee : 10 argentinean pesos (2.50 euros) 

Drinks : from 8 to 20 argentinean pesos (from 2 to 5 euros).  How to get to Zona X from Buenos Aires ?  - By mini-van : Santoni Turismo : (011) 4865-5680 / 4861-3456 (departure from Alto Palermo shopping) 

- By bus : Line 57 A to Lujan/Mercédes – Reservation : 0 800 444 0273 / 02323-423637     (Departure from Plaza Italia)  - Accomodation in Suipacha : Alto Suipacha – Reservations : (02324) 48-1071 More information on : http://www.xzonax.com.ar/ 

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